Skin peel procedure is the very important step of the skin care program both for white and dark skin. People with the African-American black or brown skin can use almost all the methods of mechanical peels, including manual exfoliation and microdermabrasion. These methods are appropriate for all the skin colors because they abrade only the outermost stratum corneum layer, which consists only of dead cells. There’s no damage for live tissues and the layer which determine skin pigmentation.
All skin types, be it African-American, European, Asian or Caucasian have the same structure and consist of the three main layers: epidermis, dermis and fatty layer. Epidermis is the first one and outermost layer, dermis is the middle one structural layer, fatty layer is the innermost one. These three layesr constantly interact and produce skin features such as texture and complexion.
The epidermis consists of the live and dead cells, these cells are called keratinocytes and have protective qualities functioning as barrier and retaining moisture. The outermost layer, called stratum corneum, consists of dead cells which are continually sloughed off. The exfoliation procedure helps to stimulate this process and to speed up cellular regeneration.
Pigmented cells called melanocytes are situated at the base of epidermis. These cells produce skin pigmentation. People with the dark skin have more melanocyts with high pigment production that provides natural sun damage protection. A sun tan and age spots are the result of the sun damage and don’t provide the same protection as the dark skin. Deep peels can also help to lighten such areas of hyperpigmentation and can cause mild skin whitening effect for dark skin tones.
Chemical peel should be used very carefully to the African-American skin because of its high sensitivity to the chemical agents.
Enzyme peels are usually recommended to treat dark, acneic and sensitive skin and are quite safe. Enzyme peeling products can be used as an alternative to the AHA and BHA peels for the sensitive and dark skin which can’t tolerate acids.
Microdermabrasion and laser peels for African-American skin:
Using the laser peels you should be ready to face some problems after the procedure because this type of the skin resurfacing treatment is associated with some risks. Laser peels are not recommended to the people with African-American skin because of the high risk of a darker pigmentation of the dark skin.
Personal and professional microdermabrasion is suitable for the dark skin on conditions when the speed of the crystal flow is reduced. Another important thing is that african-american skin needs more time for recovery from the peel procedure, so the person should wait for about three weeks between microdermabrasion treatments. When using a personal microdermabrasion kit, always do the patch test first and don’t overdo with it because of the risk of injuring.
Furthermore, dark skin is much more sensitive than white because melanocytes react more violently to the stress factors than other cells. As a result it may suffer irritations, permanents discolorations and breakouts, different mechanical or chemical factors more than white skin. It means that people with the dark skin should choose more gentle methods of exfoliation.